ANKLE FINE, AMPUTATION AVERTED
I was surfing Canggu [Bali] late yesterday when it happened. I was out there thinking I was Dane Reynolds and I've just landed awkwardly on it after trying a reverse. Even though it's okay now it fully scared me when I did it, cause my ankle rolled pretty heavily. It was hard not to think the worst when I first did it. It didn't feel too good when I came out of the water and I needed a bit of help to get up the beach, but after 10 minutes I was walking round on it and the pain was backing off, so I knew I was probably going to be okay. You know how you see footballers get injured and it looks bad initially, but they run the injury out and finish the game? It was kind of like that. I've had enough bad leg injuries over the years to know a bad one when I feel it.
The craziest part of it was the stories I started reading online about it. It sounded like they were going to have to amputate my leg. I'm not sure who they all spoke to, cause I was reading stories saying I'd done it surfing Keramas, when I actually did it on the other side of the island at Canggu. It was the biggest storm in a teacup and I was laughing at some of the stuff that came out about it. I was flattered that so many people actually cared.
I'm staying off the ankle for a day or two, but I'm aiming to be ready to go if another swell shows up later in the week. I still haven't had a big lefthand barrel on the trip so far, and I'm still pretty psyched to get one before I head home. I'm certainly not stressing about the ankle, that's for sure. I've got four weeks until the next event at Trestles, and I'm here in Bali holidaying with the family for another week, so I'm far from stressing. I'll float round the pool with the kids for the next couple of days and take it easy, and be ready to go later in the week if this swell shows up.
Terima kasih for all the support and concern guys,